Besides above issues it is a very good mouse, it wakes up from deep sleep very fast, and there is no noticeable lag. I did this fix on two mice, and a search shows there is others having the same issues with it. Also see the location of the removed resistor, it is close to the crystal. The solution is to disable the LEDs by removing R8. The main blue sensor illuminating LED is also driven from the same source, but this makes sense due to the higher Vf of the blue LED. It turns out the LEDs where driven from 4.5V from a DC/DC converter and wasting a lot of power through the limiting resistors. I never saw the warning light, because the increased current immediately drags the voltage below to cut-off limit and it turns off. Turn on your mouse, then follow the instructions to pair it to your PC: Press and hold the pair button on the bottom of the mouse until the LED light starts to flash (about 5 seconds). We and our partners use cookies to give you the best online experience, including to personalise advertising and content. Moving: 15mA Idle: 0.7mA Low battery warning, red LED: 90mA. Comparison of Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 1850 and Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500 based on specifications, reviews and ratings. I measured the current drawn from the single AA battery: First 14 seconds after turning on, green LED lit: 140mA (!!) This causes the battery voltage to sag below the cut-of voltage unless the battery was fresh, and turn off the mouse. It had a battery life far away from the claimed 8 months. If I left it on, it worked a few weeks longer, and when it turned itself off again the battery had about 1.1V. If I tried several times it finally stayed on. My mouse was difficult to turn on even if the battery had 1.4V left on it.
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